YOUR DESIGN. YOUR PREFERRED FIT.
Choose the look you love. Explore common print sizes, compare placements and check the fit on your actual garment.
Explore placements ↓
Illustrative generated mockup: the same design can feel subtle, balanced or bold. These shirts are not a calibrated measurement chart.
Diagrams show placement only. Shirt illustrations are not to scale; youth and toddler outlines are not garment size comparisons. Inches refer to the printed artwork. 1 in = 2.54 cm.
Start around 11 in for a balanced adult graphic. Keep the artwork’s proportions; a wide design does not need to be equally tall.
Placement tip: A 3–3.5 in gap below the collar is one common starting point for adult tees. Adjust for the neckline and design.
An example full-back print area, not a universal maximum. Measure the actual garment and check your press and transfer limits.
Placement tip: Center between the side seams. On hoodies, account for the hood so it does not hide the artwork.
A useful starting size for a compact logo. Long names and wide logos may need a different shape or size.
Placement tip: Left chest means the wearer’s left. Use the collar edge as a visual guide and avoid drifting toward the armpit.
A reference print area. Smaller sleeves may need a smaller logo; measure the usable flat area first.
Placement tip: Keep the design clear of the sleeve hem and seams. Check how it sits when the shirt is worn.
A general youth starting range. Brand, cut and the child’s garment size matter more than the age label.
Placement tip: Youth placement often starts 2–3 in below the collar. Try the layout on the actual garment.
A compact reference size for toddler apparel. Onesies and very small garments can require a smaller print.
Placement tip: A 2 in collar gap is one reference for toddler shirts. Measure clear space around fasteners and seams.
Width × height describes the artwork—not the shirt. Keep the original aspect ratio. For a design that is twice as wide as it is tall, an 11 in width gives a 5.5 in height. Do not stretch artwork into a square just because a chart shows a square example.
A size label does not define the printable area. Two medium shirts can have different widths, necklines and cuts. An oversized tee can suit a larger graphic, while a fitted tee may look better with a smaller print.
Use the actual garment dimensions instead of automatically increasing the print for each shirt size.
Check the artwork’s outermost printed edges. Empty transparent margins can make a file look larger than the design that will actually appear on the shirt.
Confirm how your ordering tool measures the file and review the final width and height before checkout. Keep the original proportions.
A crewneck, V-neck and scoop neck create different spaces above the design. Start with a visual centerline, then adjust the design until it looks balanced on the wearer.
Placement distances in this guide refer to the top of the printed artwork, not the carrier film. Chest logos sit on the wearer’s left, which appears on your right when facing the shirt.
Check the clear area between the neckline and pouch pocket on a hoodie. A hood can cover the upper back design. Zippers, thick seams and raised pockets also affect where a transfer can be pressed evenly.
Measure both the garment and the usable platen area. Do not treat a suggested print area as a guarantee that every garment or press can accommodate it.
You may prefer one consistent logo size across a group, or smaller and larger versions for different garments. Neither approach is mandatory.
Try a paper mockup on the smallest and largest garments first. If the same print looks too large on one or too small on another, prepare separate sizes.
A large solid graphic covers more fabric than an open, airy design. Think about the visual weight and how the wearer wants the garment to feel.
Photographs and mockups help compare styles, but they are not proof of an exact fit. Your real-size paper test and preferred look should guide the final choice.
BEFORE YOU ORDER
